Ladakh’s Rezang La War Memorial And Hall of Fame

– Remembering Indian Bravehearts –

Adil J. Govadia

The Parsi representation in the armed forces, which was once a matter of great pride, has sadly faded over time. The last Parsi to join the armed forces was the author’s son who, having stood 6th in the order of merit, cleared his OTA training in 2015, to join the College of Military Engineering, Pune in 2016. Since then, there’s been an unfortunate absence of Parsi recruits. Here’s hoping to inspire the Parsi youth to opt for the Armed Forces, once again as a career choice.

Recently, we visited Ladakh to spend a few days with our son’s Unit when we had the opportunity to visit the poignant Rezang La War Memorial. The battle of Rezang La is a crucial episode in the troubled history of Sino-India relations when the People’s Liberation Army of China carried out an attack on India in Oct/Nov 1962, a fledging country having just got its independence after several centuries of foreign rule. It is a pivotal story of unparalleled bravery and sacrifice by a small band of Indian soldiers who resolutely prevented the might of the Chinese army from taking over Ladakh.

Indian troops were grossly ill-equipped in arms, ammunition, clothing and perhaps even inadequately acclimatized in the high altitudes of Ladakh. The absence of road network in these craggy terrains posed serious difficulty in transportation of arms, ammunition, medicine and ration-supplies to the forward posts. Hence, manning the 500 kms long stretch of Indian territory in Ladakh’s rugged and frigid weather conditions and maintaining operational efficiency, was indeed a test of human endurance for Indian troops.

In the absence of animal transport, our brave troops often laboured to carry the bulk of ration and ammunition requirements. Relatively, the territory in the Chinese-occupied-Tibet was on flat terrain, making it easier for them to negotiate and move fast. Even so, it wasn’t an easy walkover for the Chinese army as the Indian troops fought the enemy with extreme courage and valour to give them a befitting red nose!

On 18th November, 1962, the Chinese decided to take advantage of the ambiguous situation and attacked forward positions with an overwhelming numerical superiority of over 10 to 1, arriving in human waves, unmindful of their casualties. And though the all-Ahirs Charlie Company of the 13 Kumaon Battalion were outnumbered and outflanked, they did not lose their nerve. Despite shortage of artillery guns and depleted ammunition, Maj Shaitan Singh and his 124 Bravehearts undauntingly entered into a grim 16-hrs long hand-to-hand fight to push back the enemy. They fought with absolute bravery and skill despite intense Chinese artillery and mortar fire to overcome the might of 1300 Chinese soldiers who were killed trying to capture Rezang La, while 114 of the total 124 Indian soldiers, including Maj. Shaitan Singh, were martyred.

Most of these Indian soldiers came from rural Haryana and were called the Ahirs. The valour of the Charlie Company successfully repulsed China’s advance, and also resulted in saving the nearby Chushul airport, preventing a possible Chinese walkover of the entire Ladakh territory. Three months later, on 10th February, 1963, when the Indian search party visited the battleground, they were shocked to discover frozen but intact dead bodies of troops, “still holding guns in their hands, having taken bullets on their chests.” Any wonder then that the Charlie Company of 13 Kumaon Battalion is the most decorated in the history of the Indian Army, with one Param Vir Chakra, eight Vir Chakras, four Sena Medals and one M-in-D (Mentioned-in-Dispatches).

The Bravehearts of Charlie Company were cremated with full military honours at the very site where the Rezang La War Memorial is built. Indeed, this sacred place bears testimony to the resolute valour and indomitable courage of the Indian soldier! Since enough wood fuel was not available to cremate 114 bodies, wooden furniture from nearby Army Units were deployed! The cremation fire was lit by the then Brig TN Raina who later became Chief of Army Staff.

At the Rezang La memorial one can see 12 small pillars surrounding the main pillar in the centre, starting with No. 1 marked on the left and ending with No. 12 on right. These 12 + 1 centre pillars indicate 13 Kumaon Battalion who successfully defended not only their post but also Ladakh from Chinese occupation.

Likewise, the Hall of Fame War Memorial, located adjacent to the Leh airfield, is another commemorative place of reverence, constructed and maintained by the Indian Army in memory of soldiers who lost their lives in Indo-Chinese and Indo-Pakistan wars. To step onto the grounds of this memorial is to embark on a journey of reverence and reflection. It is a vivid portrayal of the indomitable spirit and resounding victory of the courageous Indian daredevils during the 1962 Chinese aggression and the Pakistani infiltration in 1965. Wandering amidst the rows of black headstones of the brave 13 Kumaon soldiers who were martyred during the Chinese hostility, their memories continue to reverberate and resonate in the valley of Leh. It is indeed a sight that stirs one’s heart, filling it with pride and gratitude for the fallen soldier!

At the Hall of Fame there’s also a wall aptly named, ‘Lest We Forget’ which exhibits the photographs of martyred soldiers and officers. Indeed, a very moving and emotionally charged setting that reminds visitors of the enormous sacrifices made by the Indian army in its efforts to keep the country safe and secure from foreign aggression! Jai Hind!

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