On Wednesday 7^th May, amid stormy weather in Mumbai and what we came to realize a day later – India launching ‘Operation Sindoor’ – Team SVG, on wings of faith, prayers on our lips and determination in our hearts, headed for the CST International airport, around midnight. An enthusiastic group of fifty-five Parsi Zoroastrians from Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, Chennai, Nagpur and two from the UAE, took off for Iran in the early morning of 8^th May. Any misapprehensions were cleared almost immediately on arrival at Tehran, with its pleasant, early May weather.

The experience at Tehran airport was smooth and seamless – not much walking at the immigration counter with Indian passport holders walking through, no visa required, no Iranian stamp on the passport, no long queues, no hustle-bustle, or any waiting time for the bags to arrive. Every formality on arrival was smooth and orderly.

Amazingly Incredible Iran

Since 1995, I’ve visited Iran nearly forty times, and yet, the country never ceases to enchant. Its breathtaking natural beauty, delectable cuisine, and, most of all, the warmth of its people continue to draw me back. Iranians are known for their deep-rooted hospitality, particularly towards Zoroastrians, whom they greet with beaming smiles and heartfelt words: “Welcome to your original homeland.”

Cleanliness is a way of life across cities, villages and the countryside. From spotless restaurants and hotel kitchens to scrubbed-down buses and public spaces, hygiene is scrupulously maintained. Fresh, flavourful food is a daily norm, and environmental awareness is widespread – littering and public nuisance are virtually unheard of.

Persian culture is steeped in family values, poetry, music, gardening and a love for the outdoors. Iranians are proud, sophisticated, and incredibly welcoming. Women are educated, elegant and visible in every profession – from hospitality to aviation.

Despite media portrayals, Iran is modern, peaceful and remarkably safe. With its affordable air travel, smooth roads, and scenic railways, exploring Iran is a joy. And as coffee houses now rival the traditional ‘choi-khane’ (tea rooms), a quiet cultural transformation is underway, offering fresh perspectives at every turn.

Spiritual Motherland

For devout Zoroastrians worldwide, Iran is our spiritual motherland – a land which cradled the world’s first revealed religion, reared benevolent kings who upheld and championed human rights even before the term was coined, and bore men of learning who influenced the thought-process of thinking men across the then known world.

Every Zoroastrian should make a pilgrimage to Iran at least once in a lifetime. There’s truly something magical about the whole country – majestic snow mountains, serene and mystical deserts, sparkling clear rivers, the enchanting Caspian Sea – all warmly embracing you through this spectacular discovery of your roots. A feast for the soul indeed!

For our group of fifty-five, this was no ordinary pilgrimage, it was a uniquely Zoroastrian one, blending devotion with delight. We prayed, attended Jashans, and absorbed spiritual insights at historic sites, but we also sang, danced, feasted, rode beach bikes and even went boating – celebrating life while offering thanks to Ahura Mazda. Culinary adventures were a highlight: from barbecue nights to fresh fish by the Caspian… and if you think chelo-kebab is the only fare one can expect in Iran, you are sadly mistaken. Try the Iranian stews or mirza-gashemi and you will kiss your old favourites goodbye! Sweet juicy fruits and crisp dry-fruits completed this unforgettable spiritual and sensory journey.

We performed our traditional thanksgiving Jashan at the foothills of mount Damavand on a cool, sun-kissed day, with clouds hovering over the mountain peak; we wet our feet in the calm Caspian waters. In Kermanshah and Hamadan, we experienced the unfolding of Zoroastrian history as also Nature’s artistry, at an ancient cave with breathtaking stalactite and stalagmite formations. (Though, Persian history is always at its best in Shiraz!)

Persepolis, despite Alexander’s destruction, stands as a proud reminder to the world that it was not a fort but a citadel of peace without walls or fortification. It was the world’s first ‘United Nations’ where over twenty-four nations of the time assembled in peace and friendship. It was built without cement or mortar and men and women worked together to build this grand edifice. More importantly, there was no slavery. Clay tablets discovered at Persepolis affirm that everyone who worked, received a fair daily wage, a bottle of wine, meat and bread. Women also enjoyed, what we know today, as ‘maternity leave’.

Many pilgrims also found their experience at Naqsh-e-Rustom equally enchanting. This Necropolis, which is the final resting place of Darius and Xerxes the Great, also flaunts some of the most inspiring etched inscriptions, that not fill our hearts with pride and inspire us to live by the ideals of these great Kings.

Yazd – A Zoroastrian Stronghold

The high point of our pilgrimage was Yazd – a desert province steeped in Zoroastrian spirituality and the sacrifices of our people, after the fall of the once mighty Sassanian Empire. An ancient Zoroastrian stronghold, even today a number of ancient spiritual fires are preserved in Yazd’s sleepy villages. The only Atash Behram, other than the eight in India, is in Yazd.

Among the many legends of Yazd, the tale of the ‘flying fires’ stands out. While no one claims to have seen them soar through the skies, oral tradition holds that these sacred fires mysteriously appeared generations ago in Zoroastrian villages like Cham and Zainabad, often found burning brightly atop cypress or mulberry trees. Some attribute their origins to lightning or spontaneous combustion from the desert heat, but their presence is undeniably natural and revered. Devout Atashbands (Fire-keepers) have tended these flames with unwavering devotion, and numerous miracles are associated with them.

Equally sacred are the Pir or ancient mountain shrines marked by holy rocks in remote, rugged terrain. Folklore recounts that following the defeat of Yazdagird III, the last Sasanian Zoroastrian monarch, by Arab invaders, his fleeing family was miraculously saved when mountains opened to shelter them from pursuing invaders, when the ladies of the Royal family prayed to Ahura Mazda for help. Today, these sites stand as mountain oases, bringing life and faith to Iran’s vast, arid salt deserts.

Today, only a handful of ordained Zoroastrian priests remain in Iran, and high liturgical ceremonies like Yasna, Vendidad, Vispered, and Nirangdin are no longer performed. However, Jashans and Gahambars are still observed, and children continue to undergo the traditional sudreh-pushi (Navjote) ceremony. Navruz, the Persian New Year, is celebrated nationwide with great fervour.

In Yazd, the ancient Dokhma (Towers of Silence) draw curious tourists, especially from Germany, Japan and Korea, who study and admire this ancient system for the disposal of the dead, which since several decades has been abandoned in favour of burial. Zoroastrian villagers are warm, simple and deeply hospitable, always delighted to welcome fellow Zoroastrian tourists and pilgrims.

Overall, the journey proved profoundly enriching for our group of fifty-five, who returned with a deeper understanding and renewed appreciation of their religious, historical, and cultural heritage. For Team SVG, comprising Coover Mehta, Viraf Deboo, Keki Paghdiwala, and Noshir Dadrawala, this pilgrimage held special significance, marking the silver anniversary of Brand SVG, with pride and purpose! Over the past twenty-five years, SVG has facilitated over two thousand Parsi Zoroastrians to discover the magic of Iran – a legacy of connection, culture and community that continues to grow.

We are grateful to all who placed their trust in us, and to our wonderful Iran coordinator, Nariman Bomanji, his wife Niloofer, and their dynamic local team. Special thanks to Bahram Pashutanizadeh for his support and to Er. Kersi Bhada who accompanied us throughout, led prayers, and performed Jashans at Damavand and Pir-e-Sabz, leading us in prayer with deep devotion.